Ball python setup and care

An extremely important thing that was left out in this care guide that is possibly the most important, a thermostat. With any heating device, whether it be a ceramic heat emitter or a heat mat, you need a thermostat, and it is not optional. A friend of mine conducted an experiment, she ran various types of heating elements for a couple hours, all without thermostats, and measured the surface temps of each element.

I have pictures to prove this if necessary. That can kill even the most heat resistant snake in a matter of minutes. You can find thousands of dead or injured snakes online with extremely serious burns because of beginners who do not use thermostats. Having the light flicker on and off constantly will stress out your snake.

Regarding the feeding guide for Ball Pythons, the feeding instructions are also considerably off. A hatchling ball python is big enough to take fuzzy rats after their yolk sack is absorbed and they have their first couple meals, and by the time they are a year old they are big enough to take small rats once a week.

And adult ball python is going to need a medium to adult rat once every 2 to 3 weeks, depending on their body condition and size. The prey item should be a bit bigger than the thickest part of their body. Ball pythons quickly outgrow mice, and mice hold less nutritional value than rats.

And lastly, I do not recommend aspen for ball pythons at all, nor do I reccomend using a completely barren enclosure for the first six months to a year.

Stuck shed on their entire bodies. Ball pythons do not do well with barren enclosures for long term. A quarantine enclosure 2 hides, 1 water dish, paper towel substrate is ideal for no more than one month to check for illnesses.

I appreciate you reading this, and have a wonderful day! The temperature range I described is accurate. Surface temperatures in the mids are ideal, while ambient temperatures in the mids may prove too warm in some cases — particularly for fledgling keepers.

Additionally, 70 degrees is perfectly fine for the cool side of the habitat. You do not need a thermostat with all heating devices — specifically lights. However, it is imperative that keepers monitor temperatures consistently to ensure the heating devices are operating properly. The food guidelines are designed to offer beginners a good starting point. Snakes occasionally injure themselves sometimes severely so by trying to consume prey items that are too large.

And because this is a brief article providing instruction to beginners, it is better to err on the side of caution. I know these kinds of statements are bandied about on message boards, but the truth is far more subtle. Moreover, it is advisable to provide snakes with prey items that have fully formed skeletons. The quarantine protocol I described is similar to that employed by zoos and professional keepers across the country. Aspen is perfectly suitable for ball pythons in many cases, provided that their temperature, relative humidity level, and water reservoir are properly maintained.

I loved this care sheet! And you handled their post very diplomatically! I have used the same Temps and aspen is fine. Their natural habitate is dryast of the year and they hidrate them selves by finding moist places to hide in.

Like termite mounds. Thanks for your informative care sheet! I have two and I am very interested in and researching how to start a vivarium! Thanks again. Please let me know if I can help in any way. Thank you so much, I got up at 3 this morning and Royalty my python was shedding, it was so perfect.

I did exactly what ben said. When I saw that she had turned blue, I start adjusting her humidity from 50 to 60 up to around 75 and OMG it was the most beautiful sight ever. Thank you for everything! Usually a moist hide is enough to assist with shedding but in some cases an increase in humidity is required. Be careful with increasing the humidity too often or for extended periods of time as this can have an adverse effect such as scale rot. Not at all, Riccardo! My BP wants to wrap around the temp gauge and he has fallen off of it a couple times..

The move to a new tank can definitely cause him some stress, make sure he has adequate hiding places, check your humidity and temperatures too. I generally prefer tanks that are not open all the way around so yes you could try blocking off the back, sides and top, leaving just the front open.

Keep doing what your doing! Although helpful I still have specific questions. What lighting exactly provides heat? Not knowing I had a heat mat in the glass aquarium and am now dealing with a burnt belly. So exactly how do I provide suitable heat?

Just about any incandescent bulb will provide a significant amount of heat. You may simply need to experiment with different wattages or adjust the distance of the bulb to the habitat.

In some cases, a Watt bulb may provide sufficient heat, but in other cases, you may need a Watt bulb or more. Heat pads and other non-light-emitting heating devices should always be used in conjunction with a thermostat to avoid burns. Hey, Brian. Best of luck! If you are using an undertank mounted heat pad, where is the best location to put the hide for the snake? I understand from a lot of research that most recommend placing the water on the cool side of the tank, but not a lot of places give a good break down for placement of hides.

Hey, Pamela. Our ball python is 16 years old this year. On nice warm days she gets to hang out in our backyard large maple tree. How do I determine the size of enclosure needed. Im building a custom terrarium in an old corner cabinet but was told to consider more floor or foot space than when I have to provide.

Its an old corner curio cabinet. Does it need a broader footprint or floor base? That sounds like a reasonable footprint for his habitat. If I get a juvenile snake can I just block out a section of a larger tank until they reach maturity? Your terrarium needs to have all the basic needs met but it can also have natural substrates like mulch, dirt or clay.

It can also have live or plastic plants as well as a premade background or plastic vines to create depth and contrast. Ball Pythons do not eat plants so there is no need to worry about the types used. For keepers or breeders of large collections of snakes it is increasingly important to house the animals in a clean, safe and cost effective e environment.

There are a few choices available when it comes to snake racks and the most common and least expensive is a homemade wooden snake rack. There are templates available to follow to build your own but remember that wood is hard to clean and almost impossible to keep long term as it can expand or warp in high humidity situations.

This leads most keepers to buying PVC sheet plastic racks and with their ease of cleaning and long lasting nature it is not hard to see why most of the rack companies make this type of enclosure. The last option is a steel rack on wheels that can be used in housing large numbers of pythons. These racks are almost indestructible and other than their expensive pricing have almost no other drawbacks. It is also good to consider buying used racks from a keeper that is downsizing or leaving the hobby in order to save.

After reading these options you should be able to create the ideal living environment for your ball python. Make sure you take into consideration the size of the snake when making your decision. You will also want to consider the amount of space the ball python setup will take.

You need a hygrometer to accurately measure humidity. The thermometer we recommended above also functions as a hygrometer. The easiest way to increase humidity is to get a humidifier.

We reviewed the best snake humidifiers to help you find the right one. If you need to decrease humidity, read our post on lowering humidity in a snake enclosure for help.

UV-B rays are beneficial for any ball python, even albinos like the banana snake. They provide much-needed vitamin D3. There is recent research that shows that UVB is also great for health both mentally and physically. When using a UV fluorescent bulb make sure there is no glass and plastic between the bulb and your pet. These materials block UV rays.

Keep the bulb on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours. When it comes to buying a UV bulb, you basically have two options. Compact fluorescent bulbs or fluroescent tubes. Both work equally well, so it comes down to which fits better in your habitat.

Substrate is the floor covering, or bedding, that goes in the bottom of the cage. It is a vital component of your ball python terrarium setup. It should be about 3 inches thick and you should change it out completely once every month.

You have a few options to choose from, each with its pros and cons. You substrate choice can affect the overall health and well-being of your favorite reptile. We have an article reviewing the best bedding for ball pythons. This is the cheapest of all substrates. It is readily available and easy to replace. However, it does not hold humidity and it is not visually appealing.

Readily available, cheap and can hold humidity. It absorbs odors and moisture. It is not digestible. This Cocosoft substrate is a great choice, made from fresh coconut husks. Aspen shavings are probably the most used substrate. They are cheap and can accommodate humidity. Your python can also burrow within the shavings and they look good in the terrarium. On the other hand, aspen shavings can become moldy easily thought you should be changing them out regularly anyway and they are slightly more difficult to clean and replace than some other substrates.

The shavings also get dusty. Aspen snake bedding from Zoo Med is specially designed for snakes. This is a paper-based product that is available in different colors. You can pick the color that matches your terrarium theme. It is mold resistant and heat treated for cleanliness. This substrate is expensive and difficult to clean and replace, because it is so small.

Not generally recommended for snakes. Sphagnum moss is superior to peat moss. It retains water better. This makes it a great option for creating a humid environment. This Galapagos brand moss is great. Sphagnum moss repels insects and other organisms that may cause harm to your python, plus it has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties.

One disadvantage is that it tends to attract dust. Cypress mulch is appealing and readily available. It can be used to increase humidity.

On the other hand, it can get dusty and be difficult to clean. Zoo Med Forest Floor Bedding is the best option. Since the different substrates have unique advantages, it can be a good idea to use a mix. This method allows you to maximize the benefits of each substrate. A good combination is to mix cypress mulch, coconut fiber, and sphagnum moss. The percentage of each substrate ultimately affects the output. Approximating them is fine. Substrates like cedar shavings should be avoided because the wood has oils that can neurologically damage your ball python.

Sand can harbor bacteria and odor. It does not accommodate humidity and will make the terrarium dusty. Reptile carpets are difficult to clean.

The use of logs or thick branches can be multi-functional. A ball python loves to climb and the log will encourage such activities. It provides exercise opportunities that will help increase the muscle tone of your snake. Another function of logs within the terrarium is to provide a shedding tool for your ball python. The ball python can rub on the log to make it easier to shed its skin.

Branches, plastic leaves and grasses make good clutter material.